Filigree

Maltese Filigree

A typical Maltese craft which boasts detail and dedication with its luxurious aesthetic, produced by early ages that used to be creative in their patriotic symbolism. It is known as "Filigrana" in Maltese and includes busy organic patterns made from fine threads of silver and/or gold. In Maltese tradition of garments, we always tend to use these colors as it was luxurious, especially on women. It used to be worn by the majority of women, but only in special and important occasions due to security. Due to this, these garments were not seen in public for years maybe decades, making research on them more difficult, and limited the spreading of the craft throughout countries and even Malta on its own.  These jewelry pieces were sacred for the wearers as they believed of providing them fertility, good luck, and protection. Its participation in the Great Exhibition enabled the craft to get exposed by the English and European public.

It is hard to imitate, and adds value to the historical collection in Malta. It dates back to ancient Egypt, and can be found throughout Mediterranean and Asia. The piece above is an earring which was found between 5-7^th Century in Egypt, which boasts a fine pearl. The material is gold, but the technique seems to be a bit different than ours, which include more detail and thin patterns making the overall design more dense. We also notice a shape which resembles our Maltese Cross. Egyptians were all about high standards and luxury, thus this proves how our Maltese filigree aims to give the wearer this standard. The Egyptians’ also made use of circular chunks which seem to be used as a joining technique, as on the other hand ours makes use of silver solder to join so as not to distract the overall pattern.

Filigree is not just about jewelry, but also in jewelry cases, which for the Maltese, cases like the above are of high importance, due to sentimental factors to many such as keeping jewelry family’s ancestors etc. kept or gave for the sake of their memory. This is a tradition in the Maltese family and cases like these give it high standard the sentiments deserve. Other products with filigree include brooches, bracelets and earrings. In Malta, filigree will almost always contain the Maltese cross. This is due to factors Maltese believe when it comes to their cross… the points represent Prudence, Justice, Temperance and Fortitude. This is why they feature the cross, so as to believe they are guarded by these aspect they believe in according to their Christian beliefs. "Ghajn u gorn", "Matti", "Genwiz" and "Skratac" are different types of patterns Maltese filigree add with the commonly used Maltese cross.

Phoenicians are known for a big influence they left to the Mediterranean, as they used to trade gold and silver in high numbers. They spread their filigree designs and techniques, so the craft gained large exposure throughout. Most of them settled with the Etruscans, thus it gained interest as they were people of the arts. This settling resulted in more elaborated design to the filigree. They were so good, that jewelers following them (till today) get inspired by their designs.

  

Filigree went through a negative effect due to the mass production in the Industrial Revolution. This resulted in lost craftsmanship associated with Filigree before. Cheap materials were used to replace the fine gold and silver, also gems replaced with paste for imitation. The artistry in Filigree was lost and replaced by cutting out patterns etc. It was Peter Carl Faberge who reintroduced the craftsmanship to the craft in the 19^th Century.

References: 

Cyndie's Studio Designs. 2015. Cyndie's Studio Designs. [ONLINE] Available at: http://cyndiesstudiodesigns.com/filigreehistory.html. [Accessed 18 May 2015].

Tomatoes From Canada: Pergamon Museum 3 -- Islamic Art. 2015.Tomatoes From Canada: Pergamon Museum 3 -- Islamic Art. [ONLINE] Available at: http://tomatoesfromcanada.blogspot.com/2012/05/pergamon-museum-3-islamic-art.html. [Accessed 18 May 2015].

Saliba's Gold and Silversmith - Saliba filigree – precious like you - Saliba's Gold and Silversmith. 2015. Maltese Cross - Saliba filigree – precious like you - Saliba's Gold and Silversmith. [ONLINE] Available at:http://salibafiligree.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=63&Itemid=69&lang=en. [Accessed 18 May 2015].

Filgree-making: A Disappearing trade - The Malta Independent . 2015.Filgree-making: A Disappearing trade - The Malta Independent . [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.independent.com.mt/articles/2011-09-07/news/filgree-making-a-disappearing-trade-298318/. [Accessed 18 May 2015].

Jewellery from the Maltese islands - timesofmalta.com. 2015. Jewellery from the Maltese islands - timesofmalta.com. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.timesofmalta.com/articles/view/20130331/life-features/Jewellery-from-the-Maltese-islands.463771. [Accessed 18 May 2015].

Saliba's Gold and Silversmith - Saliba filigree – precious like you - Saliba's Gold and Silversmith. 2015. Filigree made - Saliba filigree – precious like you - Saliba's Gold and Silversmith. [ONLINE] Available at:http://salibafiligree.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=67&Itemid=54&lang=en. [Accessed 18 May 2015].

Air Malta | Air Malta . 2015. Filigree | Air Malta . [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.airmalta.com/destinations/malta/best-of-malta/culture/filigree. [Accessed 18 May 2015].

Made in Malta Products - Filigree Malta. 2015. Made in Malta Products - Filigree Malta. [ONLINE] Available at:https://www.maltaproducts.com/malta_filigree/. [Accessed 18 May 2015].